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Thomasparketpro

07 · SERVICE · INSTALLATION

Parquet floor installation

A new floor is laid once and walked on for decades, so the parts you never see again — the subfloor, the moisture, the expansion gap — are the parts that decide how it ages. Herringbone, wide planks or strip oak, glued or floating, sanded and finished on site.

  • PatternsHerringbone · plank · strip
  • SubfloorMeasured before quoting
  • FinishSanded and finished on site
Light oak herringbone parquet running to french doors that open onto a garden

The full story

The half you never see is the half that lasts

Before a single board goes down, the moisture in the subfloor and the moisture in the wood are measured, and the boards sit in the room until the two agree. Wood laid too wet shrinks into gaps over its first winter; wood laid too dry swells and lifts. Waiting a week is the cheapest part of the whole job.

Then the subfloor. Hollows are filled, high spots taken off, dust bound and, where the ground is damp, a barrier goes in. Almost every creak, gap and loose board in an old floor started as something under it that was never dealt with — which is why this stage is quoted on what is measured, not on what is assumed.

Only after that does the pattern matter. Herringbone is set out from a centre line so the cuts land at the walls rather than down the middle of the room, and the direction is chosen for the light rather than for the shape of the floor. The floor is then sanded flat and finished in the same run, so you get one continuous surface instead of a grid of factory edges.

Right for you if

  • A floor beyond repair, or a room that has never had wood in it
  • An extension or a new kitchen that has to read as one floor with the old part
  • A herringbone or plank pattern you want set out properly, not simply laid

On the day

How a floor goes down

  1. Measure and acclimatise

    Moisture readings in the subfloor and in the wood, then the boards wait in the room they will live in.

  2. Prepare the subfloor

    Levelled, cleaned and primed where needed. A hollow left here comes back as a creak two winters later.

  3. Set out and lay

    A centre line first, so the cut boards land at the walls. Glued or floating, with an expansion gap at every edge.

  4. Sand and finish

    The new floor is sanded flat and finished in the colour and sheen you picked on a sample board.

Scope

What the quote covers — and what it does not

No surprises on the invoice. This is the standard scope for a laying job; anything outside it is listed and priced separately before work starts.

Included as standard

  • Moisture readings in the subfloor and in the wood before anything is laid
  • Levelling, cleaning and priming the subfloor
  • Setting out from a centre line so the cuts land at the walls
  • Laying glued or floating, with an expansion gap at every edge
  • Sanding flat and finishing in oil, hardwax or lacquer

Quoted separately

  • Supplying the wood, unless it is quoted as one package
  • Screed, underfloor heating and damp-proof membranes
  • Lifting and disposing of the floor covering that is there now
  • Skirting, thresholds and trimming doors to the new height

The result

One floor, not a row of boards

Light oak strips running the full length of the room towards the garden door: every board in line with the walls, and the finish even from one edge to the other.

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Light oak strip floor under dark ceiling beams, crossed by a border strip, with an arched window and a garden door

Finish options

Four ways to finish the same floor

Colour and sheen change how a room reads. Thomasparketpro brings samples so you can judge them on your own boards, in your own light.

  • Wide-plank light oak floor running towards garden doors, still at the finishing stage

    Natural oil

    MATT · WARM

    Deepens the wood a shade and keeps the grain open.

  • Pitch pine plank floor sanded back to a natural pale tone in a room with a bay window

    White oil

    MATT · LIGHT

    Holds back the yellow in oak and lifts a dark room.

  • Old pine floorboards sanded smooth and even, in front of tall panelled double doors

    Hardwax

    SATIN · TOUGH

    Looks like oil, resists water like a light lacquer.

  • An oak strip floor divided by a line of masking tape, raw sanded wood on one side and freshly lacquered wood on the other, roller in the foreground

    Lacquer

    MATT TO GLOSS

    A sealed film for stairs, hallways and shops.

Oil · hardwax · lacquer, side by side
PropertyOilHardwaxLacquer
LookMatt, open grainMatt or satinMatt, satin or gloss
Feel underfootLike bare woodWood with a closed topSealed film
Water and spillsWipe up promptlyBeads on the surfaceBest in class
Local repairSpot by spotRefresh a routeScreen the whole area
CleaningOil soap, damp mopWax soap, damp mopNeutral cleaner, damp mop
Refresh interval2–4 years3–5 years7–10 years

Sanding sits underneath all three — the choice is only about the finish on top.

We thought herringbone would be fussy in a small room. He set it out against the light and it made the place look twice the size.
Ground floor in Rotterdam · 34 m² oak herringbone
A wider view of the same wide-plank light oak floor, from the doorway across to the garden doors

What drives the price

Priced per project, not per guess

Every quote is written after seeing the floor. These are the factors that move the number up or down, so you know what you are being asked about.

  1. Floor area

    Per square metre, including setting out, laying and the sanding and finish on top.

  2. Pattern

    Herringbone and chevron need far more cuts and far more setting out than straight planks.

  3. Subfloor condition

    Levelling compound, a damp barrier or a new sub-deck is priced once it has been measured.

  4. Wood and grade

    Species, board width and grade move the material cost more than they move the labour.

Start with the area

Measure your rooms in a minute — the total travels with your quote request, so the first reply already fits your project.

  • Multiple rooms in one total
  • Comma or period decimals
  • No account, no obligation
Open the floor area calculator

Afterwards

Keeping the finish

A new floor is at its most vulnerable in its first months, while the wood settles into the room it now lives in.

First 2 weeks

Let it settle

Keep the room between 18 and 22 °C and the humidity steady; the boards are still finding their width.

First winter

Expect some movement

Fine gaps that open in a dry winter and close again in summer are wood working, not a fault.

Ongoing

Watch the humidity

Between 40 and 60% relative humidity keeps a wooden floor flat. A hygrometer costs less than one board.

Questions

Asked before every job

Something else on your mind? Ask it in the quote request — you get a written answer, not a call centre.

The machines extract at the source into sealed bags, so there is no cloud and no grey layer on your shelves. Expect a fine film in the first days — as with any work in a lived-in house — and doorways screened off while the machines run.

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Planning a new wooden floor?

Send the room measurements and a photo of the floor — you get an honest recommendation and a written quote.